First Impressions--Kigali

Here are some thoughts about my first few days here:

The City--it is clear why Rwanda is known as "the land of a thousand hills." Kigali is a collection of city centers on hilltops. My hotel is nearly on the main city center hilltop called Kiyovu. (The hills are "San Francisco steep" by the way!) There are beautiful views of the different neighborhoods from the top of each hill. I haven't had much opportunity to explore beyond the city center near my hotel and CHK. I hope to see more this weekend.

Transport--Though it is hilly, many people walk. There are lots of cars, SUVs, trucks, Land Rovers etc. In fact, it seems like 1/4 of them have the logo of some international NGO on them. There are lots of minibuses that I have read are a form of public transportation (your fare is based on how far you go), but I haven't figured them out yet. There are taxis--with a light on top and a meter--and then there are taxis without--negotiate your price and hope you are not overpaying. And there are LOTS of motorcycle taxis. The moto-taxis are regulated--they all wear green & yellow vests and must carry an extra helmet for the passenger, but they too have no meter and prices are negotiable. The main roads are paved and generally have a sidewalk on one side. The side roads may not be paved and do not have sidewalks. As a pedestrian, it is CRUCIAL to be aware of the varied types of vehicles and the somewhat erratic way they drive.

Cityscape--green rolling hills and lush valleys--including one with a golf course. The sky has been generally blue in the morning, but hazy with humidity during the afternoon sun. The night sky has been brightly lit by the moon the last few nights, but the stars are visible before moonrise and they are impressive.

Architecture--in the city center between my hotel and the IntraHealth office there are no less than 5 very large, modern appearing buildings occupied by various banking institutions. The Hotel Mille Collines and the Kigali Serena Hotel (formerly the Intercontinental) are also modern-looking exteriors, but both are undergoing renovations. There are a few mid-rise buildings under construction as well. Along the hillsides and in the valleys there is quite a range of structures from mud/clay walls to cement/stucco. Most are one story, but some are 2-3 with balconies.

People--Everyone I have met have been warm and welcoming. Sometimes I have noticed people will stare at me, but I realized everyone stares at everyone else too. People have been helpful and generous with their time. When I ask for directions, many times the person will walk me to where I am going. Most are dressed business casual or more formal, some women wear more traditional Rwandan dress--the mushanana--which resembles a sari.

Language--There are 3 official languages, Kinyarwanda, English and French. Most of the time I have gotten by with just English, but I have heard that it will be more difficult outside of Kigali. I am trying to learn Kinyarwanda and have been thankful that morganinafrica.blogspot.com had published an informal Kinyarwanda-English dictionary. Just saying Hello (Muraho) and Thank-you (Murakoze) in Kinyarwanda makes all the difference in the world.

Money--I was told before I came that Rwanda is a cash society. Most places do not accept credit cards and if they do, they charge a 3-5% service fee. Only the nicest hotels & restaurants, the national tourist office (ORTPN) and some tour agencies will accept them. I've only seen VISA signs. The local money is the Rwandan Franc. It is approx 560 Rwandan Franc (rF) = US $1. The exchange rate for the dollar is different based on where you change money (bank vs forex bureaux) and what denomination you have. Also, because of concerns for counterfeiting, only US bills more recent than 2001 are accepted. I don't know what the exchange rate is for the Pound or Euro, but that is pretty easy to find. I have been surprised by how pricey some things in Kigali can be. My hotel is not too expensive, approx US $55/night w/ breakfast included. The Bourbon Coffee shop at the town center gets about $2 for brewed coffee and $3+ for cappuccino. The Nakumatt supermarket has reasonable prices (1.5L bottle of water for 500 rF), but some things are not cheap. Most places charge 250-500 rF for a coca-cola (no diet/coke light by the way), 900-1500 rF for a beer, 2500-5000 rf for a main entree. The Moto-Taxis are supposed to be cheap, but I haven't tried them.

Food--I have eaten well while I've been here in Kigali. The restaurant at Iris Guesthouse serves a modest continental breakfast each morning. Their lunch/dinner menu is more varied than a New York City diner. The food is OK here. Next door to my hotel is the Shiang Hai Chinese restaurant. I have had dinner here twice--both times I was impressed. In fact, I think I may have discovered the first Chinese-African fusion cuisine: Sweet & Sour Goat! It was fantastic. I also ate at Heaven--which is an amazing restaurant 2 blocks from my hotel. It was opened last summer by 2 Americans and is an awesome story of empowerment for Rwandans and good food. I have been told that outside Kigali there are not many restaurants and they are not very good. We'll see. For those who know me, I'm sure I will have more to say about food soon.